1. Heat extra-virgin oil in a large sauté pan. Add carrots, celery and onion and cook on medium until soft. Stir in chili and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are lightly browned, about 20 minutes total.

2. Place tomatoes in a bowl, crush fine with your hands and add to pan. Stir. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to very low and cook, stirring from time to time, 1 1/2 hours, until reduced and concentrated. Do not allow sauce to scorch. Season to taste with salt. Set aside.

3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil for pasta. Cook pasta until al dente. Add 1/2 cup pasta water to tomato mixture. Drain pasta. Reheat sauce to a simmer, add pasta and toss a few minutes until pasta is well coated with sauce. Serve, with generous drifts of cheese on top.

Yield: 6 servings.

Adapted from Quinto Quarto (New York)